Wednesday, December 24, 2008

Patricia Wells At Home In Provence or Patsys Cookbook

Patricia Wells at Home in Provence: Recipes Inspired by Her Farmhouse in France

Author: Patricia Wells

For the past thirteen years, Patricia Wells has been carrying on a love affair-not with an individual, but with a region of France, a centuries-old stone farmhouse, and a cuisine. Now, in a cookbook that captures the soul of modern regional French cooking, the award-winning journalist and author invites readers to share the passion, the joy, and, best of all, the cooking of her adopted home.
Provence is uniquely blessed with natural beauty as well as some of the world's most appealing foods and liveliest wines. Patricia's culinary skills have transformed the signature ingredients of this quintessential French countryside into recipes so satisfying and exciting they will instantly become part of your daily repertoire.
Here are 175 recipes from Patricia's farmhouse kitchen. Simple but imaginative "palate openers" such as Tuna Tapenade are followed by a profusion of salads, from All-Star Herb Salad, which captures the essence of the herb garden in a single bite, to the vibrant, cream-dressed greens of the Cheesemaker's Salad.
Vegetables have a special place in the hearts and palates of Provence's cooks, so Patricia presents an entire chapter of quick-and-easy vegetable creations. From the crunch and herbal freshness of Fresh Beans with Garlic & Herbs to the elegant simplicity of Potatoes Roasted in Sea Salt, these are recipes for the vegetarian and nonvegetarian alike.
Soul-satisfying soups have their own chapter, with such delights as Summer Piston and the deeply flavorfull Caramelized Fennel Soup. This chapter is highlighted by Monkfish Bouillabaisse with Aioli, Patricia's own brilliant interpretation of a Provencal classic. Pastas, too, are on the menu, withinventive dishes like Provencal Penne and Spaghetti with Green Olive Puttanesca, inspired by the produce of Patricids village market. A chapter on breads includes everything from Crusty Wheat & Polenta Bread to an olive oil brioche, a local classic.
Poultry and game are represented with everything from Butter-Roasted Herbed Chicken to Monsieur Hennys Rabbit Bouillabaisse. In the fish and shellfish department, you will savor Seared Pancetta-Wrapped Cod and The Valson Fishmonger's Fresh Tuna Casserole. When it comes to meat, Patricia offers recipes for earthy daubes, the slow-simmered almost-stews so beloved by the French, along with homey favorites like Lemon-Thyme Lamb Chops, and Spit-Roasted Brine-Cured Pork.
To round out the meal, there is a treasure trove of desserts based on seasonal fruits-Cherry-Almond Tart, Winernaker's Grape Cake, and Patricids Apricot-Honey-Almond Tart, as effortless as child's play but as impressive as the most exacting work of the pastrymaker's art.
As you read and cook from this book, generously illustrated with the captivating color pictures of famed photographer Robert Freson, you will feel as if you have actually joined Patricia Wells in her beloved stone farmhouse, and her passion for the foods, flavors, and people of Provence will become yours. As comforting as an old friend, as enlivening as a trip to the sun-dappled hills of southern France, this book will truly bring Provence into your kitchen, and you will want to visit its pages again and again.

Publishers Weekly

Patricia Wells. Scribner, $40 (352p) ISBN 0-684-81569-9 Relaxed and unfailingly enticing, this superb collection of 175 recipes will make readers feel as comfortable in their kitchens as its accomplished author is at Chanteduc, her 18th-century farmhouse in northern Provence. Wells (Bistro Cooking; Simply French) is not the first to underscore the appeal of simple, fresh food, but she coaxes new tiers of flavor from many of the dishes here by her creative arrangements of basic ingredients. Instead of the standard cherry clafoutis, for example, she offers Tomato Clafoutis as appetizer or Chanteduc Clafoutis, made with mixed fruits, for dessert. Herb-Cured Filet of Beef Carpaccio, in which the filet, wrapped for two days in tarragon, parsley, basil, thyme and salt, attains a savory goodness with surprising ease. The True Salad Fan's Salad, composed of finely chopped tops of very young root vegetables (carrot, radish, beet, celery, etc.) with vinaigrette, and Garlic Family Soup (with leeks, onions, shallots and a head of garlic) fairly vibrate with an abundance of flavor. Catalan Tuna Daube marries anchovies, capers, onion, lemon zest, tomatoes and cubes of tuna steak in a memorable union. La Broufade is another outstanding daube, but with beef simmered in white wine instead of the usual red. Wells is sensible in her use of oils and fats, calling, for example, for whole milk and cream in judicious amounts. The diner's delight flows from the wisely prepared ingredients; the cook gets the added pleasure of reading Wells's warm, intelligent proseand serving up excellence. Photos not seen by PW. (Oct.)

Library Journal

Wells, author of the well-known Food Lover's Guide to Paris (Workman, 1993. rev. ed.) and Simply French (LJ 9/15/91), among other titles, presents recipes for the dishes she cooks at home when she's not hot on the trail of the best food France has to offer. Like Lydie Marshall (Chez Nous: Home Cooking from the South of France, LJ 3/15/95), Wells has ingredients at hand any cook would envy, from olives, perfect fruit and even truffles on her own land to the fresh cheeses and Mediterranean fish offered by local merchants. With its dozens of full-color photographs, Wells's book is a more lavish affair than Marshall's, and her recipes are often richer and more elaborate as well: Artichoke, Parmesan, and Black Truffle Soup; Minted Crabmeat Salad; and Herb-Cured Fillet of Beef Carpaccio, accompanied by detailed wine suggestions (which may often be out of reach of those who do not have a farm in Provence). In any case, not to be missed. [Previewed in Prepub Alert, LJ 6/1/91.]



Table of Contents:
CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION
1. PALATE OPENERS & APPETIZERS
2. SALADS
3. SOUPS
4. VEGETABLES
5. PASTA
6. BREAD
7. FISH & SHELLFISH
8. POULTRY & GAME
9. MEAT
10. DESSERTS
11. PANTRY
INDEX

Book review:

Patsy's Cookbook: Classic Italian Recipes from a New York City Landmark Restaurant

Author: Sal Scognamillo

From the Restaurant That Frank Sinatra Made Famous

Of the thousands of restaurants in New York City, very few withstand the tests of time—and only one can lay claim to being Frank Sinatra’s favorite. And where Frank went, his friends followed—from close pals such as Tony Bennett and fellow Rat Packers Dean Martin and Sammy Davis Jr. to the show-biz colleagues they brought in.

Established nearly sixty years ago, Patsy’s has long been a celebrity favorite and a New York institution. Why? Great food, family friendliness, and a welcoming atmosphere that makes you feel like you’ve come home. And the fare is the classic southern Italian cuisine that’s become America’s comfort food: Mussels Arreganata, Fettuccine Alfredo, Rigatoni Sorrentino, Chicken Parmigiana, Veal Marsala, Shrimp Scampi, Tiramisù . . . a greatest hits of Neapolitan-influenced dishes.

And Patsy’s Cookbook provides more than recipes: also in the mix are anecdotes from family and friends, including the occasion when Pablo Picasso tried to give Patsy a painting; the time that the restaurant opened on Thanksgiving Day just for Frank Sinatra; Aunt Anna’s rather unorthodox autograph request of Sean “P. Diddy” Combs; and the story of the roast suckling pig delivered to Jackie Gleason’s hotel suite.

Here is a remarkable collection of 100 perfectly executed, delicious recipes, heartwarming stories of a successful family business, and entertaining celebrity tales, capturing the full experience of a New York City institution. Patsy’s Cookbook is an invitation to join the extended family that’sproud to call Patsy’s their second home.

Publishers Weekly

Patsy's, on New York's 56th Street, was founded in 1944 by the author's grandfather Pasquale (Patsy) and grandmother Concetta. Fans like Frank Sinatra, Al Pacino, Rosemary Clooney and, recently, Alec Baldwin, Jennifer Lopez, Sean "Puffy" Combs and Rudy Giuliani have frequented the restaurant because of Patsy's unpretentious Neapolitan roots. In one sidebar Aunt Anna recites her recipe for Frittata with Leftover Pasta; another relates a Quick and Easy Lobster Fra Diavolo (although the sauce, while you can buy it, remains a guarded secret). The introduction is devoted to Old Blue Eyes, with Frank's Clams Posillipo and Frank's Veal Cutlets Milanese, describing the time he and Sammy Davis Jr. competed tap dancing and singing. The book covers traditional courses, beginning with Asparagus Rolls and Mussels Arreganata and ends with Maddalena Raspberry Cookies and Tiramisu. The extensive vegetables chapter includes Vegetable Napoleon, Fried Zucchini Blossoms, Zucchini a Scapece, and White Bean and Scallion salad. Soups include the homey Pasta e Ceci, while pastas provide a basic palette of sauces along with variations such as Farfalla Papalina and Risotto Fruitti di Mare. Scognamillo (Patsy's grandson and current chef) shares recipes for Chicken Piccata, Steak Alla Patsy and Sal's Chilean Sea Bass with Eggplant and Olives (the "best sea bass in New York City" according to Tony Bennett). Directions are simple and well adapted to home cooking; the book will please both old and new fans alike. (June) Copyright 2002 Cahners Business Information.



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